3 in one oil?

[ShortMan]

Is it acceptable when proper gun oil is not available?

Unrelated question: Whats your favorite foam cleanser?
And do you have a favorite cloth?

[TBob]

3-in-1 is better than nothing, but it's pretty light and evaporates too quickly. Not made for the heat generated in firearms. Rem Oil is much better if you have it handy. I don't use it on my firearms anymore, but I still use it around the house as a replacement for 3-in-1 and WD-40.

I don't use foam. I use Gunzilla CLP. I've used a lot of cleaners over the years, but Gunzilla is quite unique and very effective. Read about it on their site. There isn't another CLP like it. If I were to use a foam, though, it would probably be Gunslick's Foaming Bore Cleaner. Like Gunzilla, its non-hazardous and very effective. I've seen it work extremely well on military hardware like tank barrels.

I have used a Outers Silicone Gun & Reel Cloth for decades. However, I'm thinking of switching to Otis Dry Lube ARMOR Cloth. I love their cleaning system (used w/Gunzilla or their Otis' O85 Solvent) and use their dry lube on my carry M1911s. After it dries in about 20 seconds, there's nothing to leak on your clothes and it lasts a long time.

[Diomed]

You're probably better off with motor oil if you're not using gun oil. (Personally I use Hoppe's when I use oil, typically I use grease.)

I don't care for foams, they're only good for removing copper and dedicated copper removers are probably better for that. Cloth? I get rags from Lowe's.

[M1A4ME]

I've used 3n1 oil on my handguns, rifles and shotguns for over 30 years. My dad uses it on his guns and I figure that's longer than 30 years since he taught me to clean guns and he's 76 now.

When I was in the US Army I was taught to use LSA to lube my M14. When I got my M1A (1978) I quickly ran out of LSA and used 3n1 oil to lube my M1A until 2 years ago when I "got into" M1 Garands and started lubing them with grease, then I switched my M1A to grease after using 3n1 oil for 30 years.

I don't know how it stands up under heat but I can tell you that I do something else (a lot of things really) that many folks roll their eyes in horror at - I wipe my rifles and shotguns down with a rag and 3n1 oil and then put them away in a soft gun case. Some of them sit in their cases for 8 years at a time (I got 5 or 6 of them out of the attic last winter and wiped them down again) and when I pull them out they are still oily to the touch.

Maybe my 3n1 oil is old and the new stuff isn't as good???? Anyway. I use other lubes as well. Recently I started using Mobil 1 on my AR's and so I've started dripping it into my 1911's as well - but I still wipe the outsides down with, and run a patch through the barrel, oiled with 3n1 oil. The Mobil 1 doesn't seem to wipe down the outside surfaces quite as well as the 3n1 oil does.

If you want to find something (new to you) that works then buy several small cans/bottles (see, my 3n1 oil is still in metal cans - that's how old it is ) and use the lube on different guns and see what works best for your guns and the way you use them.

[ShortMan]

Sooooo, 10W40?
5W30?

[gunderwood]

I don't know how it stands up under heat but I can tell you that I do something else (a lot of things really) that many folks roll their eyes in horror at - I wipe my rifles and shotguns down with a rag and 3n1 oil and then put them away in a soft gun case. Some of them sit in their cases for 8 years at a time (I got 5 or 6 of them out of the attic last winter and wiped them down again) and when I pull them out they are still oily to the touch.

I do something similar. I wipe mine down with Birchwood Casey's Barricade (most large retail gun stores carry it) and put them in silicon impregnated wraps (Walmart carries the Winchester brand for like $5). This takes very little work and nothings rusts. I put some gun oil down the barrel too. Before I shoot them, I wipe them down (to remove the excess Barricade oil) and clean the oil out of the barrel (a dry patch or two, then two patches soaked in 91% rubbing alcohol, then a two dry patches).

Most oils will work, no problem. However, I have seen some problems caused.

I personally have had headspace issues with CLP. I stored a quick change barrel for about 1 year, pulled it out, cleaned it like I described above, but the headspace was very slightly too short. This barrel, being quick change, was stored in the case with the rifle and I did use the rifle. Thus, it was either laying vertical or horizontal for that year. It took me a bit to figure out what was wrong, but since the cartridge has some body slope, the CLP pooled right at the shoulder. Over the course of that year it thickened and it took heavy duty solvents to get it out and restore proper headspace. After a good scrubbing with a chamber brush (which I practically wore out) and solvent, I clearly got some dissolved CLP out and headspace was restored. I always clean the chamber with rubbing alcohol, so there was no liquid CLP left. I have switched to Montana Extremes gun oil and have had no problems.

Also, I have know people who have had problems with other oils gumming up too. One such example was a bolt action rifle (not mine) which had an erratic trigger. It would sometimes trip when the bolt closed (seen this happen in person due to a messed up trigger too). The friend who was trouble shooting this noticed the gummed up oil and cleaned it. That fixed the trigger.

Generally, I recommend you always use gun oils/greases for firearms. Yes, other stuff can and does work, but good gun products aren't that expensive. After my CLP experience, I prefer to use dedicated cleaners and dedicated lubes. I clean the bore/chamber with rubbing alcohol (91%) between the solvent and oil to make sure there is no residue left which could break down the oil. I clean them with rubbing alcohol again before shooting to insure that there is no oil left in the bore. Since staring that, I have noticed my cold bore shots are much closer to my post fouled bore shots. In some cases the shift is so small now that it could be just the shooter.

[TBob]

gunderwood,

My guess is that you used Breakfree CLP? That's the junk the military issues and dates from the 60's. Although many use CLP as a synonym for Breakfree, CLP itself is simply a category of product that cleans, lubricates, and protects the metal. Breakfree has caused no end of issues in the war, which is why many squads and platoons buy either Gunzilla, Otis, Militec-1, or other products out of their own pockets or their family's pockets to use.

The more modern formulas are usually a) non-hazardous (Breakfree carries HAZMAT warnings) and b) don't attract dust/dirt like Breakfree. Militec-1 and Otis Dry Lube dry very quickly leaving a lubricating coating (and in Otis' case, a protective one), so don't attract or accumulate dust/dirt. Militec-1 actually bonds to the metal and must be heated either in by firing the firearm or heating it with a hair drier on high. Gunzilla doesn't dry as quickly, but its non-ionic so doesn't attract dust/dirt either. When it dries, it also leaves a lubricative/protective coating on the metal. Militec-1 isn't quite as good as a protectant as the other two.

I was a skeptic at first, but using Gunzilla CLP for a couple of years has sold me on its performance and value. I highly recommend it.

[Vahunter]

Back in the day 3in1 was what my Dad used on guns, I did too until real gun oil became available. Don't use WD40. About 10 years ago or so there was a study done on gun oils and it was found that WD40 attracts moisture

[gunderwood]

My guess is that you used Breakfree CLP? That's the junk the military issues and dates from the 60's. Although many use CLP as a synonym for Breakfree, CLP itself is simply a category of product that cleans, lubricates, and protects the metal. Breakfree has caused no end of issues in the war, which is why many squads and platoons buy either Gunzilla, Otis, Militec-1, or other products out of their own pockets or their family's pockets to use.

No, it was new production stuff within the last couple of years (my headspace problem was this year). It actually was one of those you listed by brand name. I'll PM you the actual brand if you want, but I don't think it really is relevant. CLPs are not really designed to be a long term storage solution. I used it because I was curious how it would work, learned something, and now I am using a pure oil.

I would expect some other non-gun oils to potentially have similar problems. Don't know that for a fact, but FYI.

You are correct though. The old stuff was bad and the modern CLPs are much better and generally don't gum up when used. However, I doubt many people are using them to for long term protection like I was. I have no problem using modern CLP if you aren't going for long term storage >3-6 months.

[Chasbo00]

Gunzilla and Militec-1 Grease have become my two key gun cleaning and lube products. I miss the smell of Hoppe's No. 9 Solvent though.

[TBob]

I miss the smell of Hoppe's No. 9 Solvent though.

LOL. My wife sure doesn't, and I don't miss freezing my fingers off on the porch in the winter.

[grumpyMSG]

TBob wrote:
My guess is that you used Breakfree CLP? That's the junk the military issues and dates from the 60's. Although many use CLP as a synonym for Breakfree, CLP itself is simply a category of product that cleans, lubricates, and protects the metal. Breakfree has caused no end of issues in the war, which is why many squads and platoons buy either Gunzilla, Otis, Militec-1, or other products out of their own pockets or their family's pockets to use.

That's funny, the Army continues to test lubricants on a routine basis for use on weapons and the one that continues to be the best is BreakFree CLP, it's not perfect, but the best they have found yet. The one major exception to that is the MK 19 Automatic Grenade Launcher, always use LSA-T. The issue is how many people don't understand how to properly lubricate a weapon (Mainly the where). Most of the time I saw the worst job of lubricating the M16s at the rifle qualification range, opening the dust cover and squirting a couple of squirts on the side of the bolt carrier (right on the side where it doesn't need any oil other than to prevent rust). Meanwhile where the steel bolt carrier rubs the receiver, no lube. To properly lubricate it, pull the bolt carrier out put a couple of drops of oil on the shiny spots, make sure the rest of the carrier is not bone dry and you are good to go...

As of June 2009 the Army still said:
https://www.logsa.army.mil/psmag/archiv ... -24-25.pdf

For a little more advice for AR 15 owners:
[urhttps://www.logsa.army.mil/psmag/archives/PS200 ... 27-34.pdfl][/url]

Wow and just so I don't just drink the Army's Koolaid:

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

[TBob]

Grumpy,

Thank you for your service.

Yep, I am intimately aware of the Army's Kool-Aid and have read every "study" they've done and decree they've issued. It's amazing what a megabureaucracy with big bucks can spin in the press and in their ranks. That's all I'll say here. I don't own stock in any of these companies. Believe what you want and use what you wish.

[Drumstix61]

I recommend Eezox.

Here's some reading;
http://shootingmessengers.blogspot.com/ ... -wide.html

[ShortMan]

BUMP!

OK, I been doing something for the past couple months and it works well so I thought I'd share it.
I got a big can of super foaming cleaner and it worked alright but I figured something out one day while in the kitchen. I was making garlic pretzels which involves dumping them all in a big ziplock back and sloshing them around.
So I figured it could work with guns too. I take apart the pistol down to the smallest component I feel comfortable with, place the reciever in one small baggie and the other parts in another. Stick the tube from the cleanser can down in there and foam it up like whipped cream on a Vegas stripper in a kiddie pool. Squeeze out the air, seal it up. And mix it around for a bit. Then I let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes, and pull the items out of the bag one by one & clean them off. Works great and is very neat compared to other methods.

Only downside is field stripping a Sig P238 is not good enough. You also have to remove the sill plastic grips cuz I dont think they stand up to harsh cleaners. And that requires a special allen wrench which I am lucky to have in my 101 bit set.
Also I find it much easier to wear rubber gloves and use paper towels instead of rags. Everything goes in the trash and my hands are cleaner by the end. The guns are also cleaner it seems.

What about you guys?

[OakRidgeStars]

Thanks for the cleaning tip. I'm going to try that with my Ruger Mark II.

...and foam it up like whipped cream on a Vegas stripper in a kiddie pool.

This comment requires pictures, please

[gunderwood]

I've tried the foaming cleaners on my ARs and they work great. the only problem is that it gets messy. I've since switched to M-Pro 7 because it is non-toxic. If I had an ultrasonic cleaner I'd probably just stick the whole upper in it...

Hmm, I bet I could build one of those.

[ShortMan]

You may be able to seperately stick an upper and lower into one of those huge ziplock bags. I think they are the one gallon size. Or just use a small trash bag, wastebasket size.

[gunderwood]

You may be able to seperately stick an upper and lower into one of those huge ziplock bags. I think they are the one gallon size. Or just use a small trash bag, wastebasket size.

I'm not concerned about it getting on other stuff besides the rifle while cleaning, I'm concerned about about it getting into the various nooks and crannies of the upper (which then leaks out over time and leaves nice carbon stains when it does) and of course, optics. You can mitigate it by tilting the upper so the barrel is higher and using a none expanding cleaner like M-Pro 7. The excess drains out the end, but still can run out ejection port or through the bolt assist.

I've used compressed air to blow out some of the residual cleaner and it helps, but still isn't 100%.

[AlanM]

Back in the day 3in1 was what my Dad used on guns, I did too until real gun oil became available. Don't use WD40. About 10 years ago or so there was a study done on gun oils and it was found that WD40 attracts moisture

Just for the record WD40 does not attract moisture.
The WD in the name stands for Water Displacing (it was the 40th formulation they tried).
WD40 is mostly Stoddard solvent, which is a dry cleaning fluid invented in 1924, and a very small amount of lubricant.
Using WD40 on/in a gun will REMOVE nearly all greases and oils on the gun and make it a prime target for rust/corrosion.