AlanM wrote:I That being said, something just occurred to me.
When a 1911 is in full battery the barrel lugs are fully engaged with the mating lugs of the slide, essentially locking the sights of the slide with respect to the bore of the barrel REGARDLESS of any slop between the slide and the pistol frame.
It seems to me that just because a 1911 has some rattle doesn't mean it won't accurately hit what you aim at. Every gun I've ever owned or shot has shot better than me. (Comparing rest firing vs. standing free hand)
Besides that, all it takes is some judicious work with a prick punch, small hammer, and a stone to tighten up the slide to frame mating surfaces if the rattle bothers you that much.
Actually I find the idea of out shooting someone while using a 50+ year old "rattle trap" a highly amusing idea.
Since the barrel link is connected to the frame, it can have an effect (although minimal), by pulling the rear of the barrel slightly down, causing the impact to be slightly higher, it would cause a slight amount of vertical stringing. Slop between the barrel bushing and barrel will allow dispersion in all directions. Neither will cause huge reliability issues, but they will open up the shot groups.
You can't expect too much from these pistols, the youngest of them were built in 1945 and were in service through the late '80s. Most have been rebuilt two, three or more times. They weren't treated the best by their users, They may have gotten only 50-100 rounds through them some years, but they were dragged through a lot of mud, snow, rain and sand. They have had a lot of holster time and even if they were originally blued M1911s, at this point they are probably a bunch of mixed up parts and have a poor level of parkerization left.
All that said, I wouldn't say I wouldn't buy one, but there is only one serial number I would purchase and it is ingrained in my head.
You just have to ask yourself, is he telling you the truth based on knowledge and experience or spreading internet myths?