I am going to make my first Kydex holster for my M&P .40. I already have 4 holsters but none are exactly what I want.
Each one has its benefits and features but I still find features I want that I only find with others. And most are quite expensive.
This guy Rezarf has a great write up on making a Kydex holster for a 1911 and I will use it as a guide.
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=288408
The holster he makes seems quite simple. He fabricates a 2 piece OWB. I'm going to attempt a wrap-around 1 piece IWB with a single wide belt clip.
This image shows how the molding press is constructed using MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) boards, hinges and foam.
A comment made in his write-up was that when the lid is closed it has a tendency to push the Kydex toward the hinge. I think I will make the top section longer and put the 1' square at the very end. This would provide a bit more of a straight down motion when closing the lid on the Kydex and gun.
My first Kydex skin I've ordered - sure hope I don't mess it up.
In another write-up the writer commented about the holster being 50-50. I assumed it to mean the foam was equal on both top and bottom. Sounds like putting more foam on top or bottom and adjusting the total compression could provide for the mating surfaces of a 2 piece to be offset. This would allow making the front of the holster (OWB design) to extend outward more than the back creating a flatter surface (less definition) that contacts the body.
Between the two sources of instructions there are several good ideas that I would implement - heating the foam pads (lay them on cookie cooling racks across a partially open oven door), pre-heating the cookie sheet to hold the Kydex when warming and even pre-heat the gun before molding.
I have ordered the Kydex, foam and some wide single clips. I should be able to obtain the rest through local resources - rivets, eyelets, normal garage tools, etc.
I'll post my pics if anyone indicates an interest in my process and results. Looking forward to a new hobby.
