GeneFrenkle wrote:I trust you'll really appreciate the trigger as well as the simplicity of the 1911 design.
Simple is not a word I would use for the 1911, but it's a fine design none the less.
GeneFrenkle wrote:Check out how it works with rn as wel as jhp ammo. Sometimes they'll need to be "tuned" to reliably feed jhp. The tuning is generally polishing the feed ramp.
Polishing the feed ramp may help, but the issue is bigger than that. When the 1911 was designed, there was only 230gr FMJ to worry about. Also, in theory a controlled feed design should be more reliable since the round is "captured" by the action at all times. I.e. it's controllably feed into the chamber; aka captured during the entire feeding process. This is in contrast to most modern handgun designs which are kinetic fed. I.e. the round is "popped" off the mag and into the chamber. There actually is a period of time between where the mag has let go of the next cartridge and it is not captured by the chamber, nor by the slide/breach. For a semi-auto its typically not a big deal, but if you have a bolt action which isn't control fed, try loading a round in any orientation but normal. It won't work because as soon as the round is let go by the mag, gravity takes over and it falls out or jams. In a semi-auto it typically happens fast enough that it's not a problem.
The original design of the 1911 is as a control fed system using 230gr FMJ. Anything that isn't that exact geometry tends to feed poorly. HPs are worse because they put a large hole/edges at the tip of the round, which just happens to be the surface that the control fed system is wanting to use (back of the cartridge is against the breech face, but the nose is sliding along the inside of the chamber). This is why so many 1911s don't feed HPs well. However, there is a simple fix and it's the most often recommended. Use Wilson Combat's mags. They were specifically designed to short circuit the control feed mechanism of the 1911 and convert it into a kinetic feed. This solves most issues.
