Good question. I've tried a lot of stuff and most of it works pretty well...well enough that I plan to use it up even if I find something I like better. I've tried CLP and think it is a great product (most of them) for the field when you can't carry many cleaners. For field I like the Otis cleaning kits and CLP, but at home I can get a much better job done with rods, bore guides, and individual cleaners. I've had CLP breakdown during storage and cause headspace issues.
General purpose cleaning: M-Pro 7. Given that you likely will get it on you I like the non-toxic aspects of it. I don't clean bores with it, but it works great on AR uppers, pistols, etc.
Bore Solvent: I like shooters choice a bit better than #9 because it does a better job with copper fouling IMHO, but it doesn't really matter. Once that is used up I'll just be using Montana Extreme Bore Solvent as it does an even better job.
I've cleaned firearms (mostly my precision bolt actions) with SC/#9 and then recleaned them with MEs bore solvent and I get copper and a bit of powder out of them on the second cleaning. Going the other way I get nothing. ME accomplishes this by having ammonia in their solvent, which works really well, but most consider it unsafe to soak for more than 10-15mins. Easy enough, if I can get a squeaky clean barrel in minutes vice hours with other stuff, so be it. Sweets 7.62 is a close second IMHO for copper. Using products with ammonia really made it clear just how poorly other cleaners were performing (you can't see it without a bore scope). Again, you have to be smart about because damage may occur otherwise.
Note: when doing such tests you need to be careful about places solvent can build up and taint the results. E.g. muzzle brakes/flash hiders usually have a small gap between them and the barrel. You will get build up there unless you clean it out. I use qtips.
Heavy copper fouling solvent: The best bar none is the Montana Extreme 50BMG. Be very careful as this stuff will knock you flat if you accidentally get a whiff of it! Unless you are shooting a big bore magnum, you don't need this and the regular will do just fine. Technically the regular will work too, but it will take many more passes to get that level of copper fouling out.
Degreaser: 91% rubbing alcohol. This is something very few people do, but I think it is worth while and critical unless you are using CLP. I run a soaking wet patch through, then two dry immediately afterwards, and then let it sit for 2mins or so. I now have a super clean barrel with no traces of cleaners or oil. When I'm storing guns I use this and then add oil...before I shoot those guns I redo this after a patch or two to take the oil out. I find that my first shots out such guns are much closer and usually don't require a fouling shot. It's not perfect, but it is close. I learned this from an old Vietnam sniper (a real verifiable one).
External (non-lubricating) rust preventer: I was using Birchwood Caseys barricade, but I'm not trying eezox. Eezox is basically like the old CLP formulas which had teflon in them...a bit different, but not by much IMHO. I originally read about it here:
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
It says it lubricates, but I don't use it for that. I also don't shove it down my bore...don't like the idea of putting teflon (or similar) down my bore. So far I like it, but it hasn't been long enough to say for sure. That test is impressive though. It mostly evaporates off leaving behind the lube...I dry it a bit so it stores better...you can definitely tell that the surface has changed.
Bore oil: This is all about storage, not lubrication. I've been using the Montana Extreme bore oil, but again not long enough to really draw a conclusion about it. We'll see how some of the guns I've stored over the winter come out. I've had problems with CLP and such breaking down or just running out (since gun safes store them vertical). Some people claim it conditions the bore, but if it does it probably isn't night and day so proving that would be difficult. If it just works better to protect expensive barrels I'll be happy.
Oil: Used all kinds, don't think it really matters. CLP seems to have a slight edge on ARs. The real value here is not which is slickest, but which works in extremes (cold/hot weather, humidity, firing temps, etc.) and doesn't give up. Unless you are doing some milspec 10k round test, I doubt you will see much difference. Use a name brand and you probably are good to go.
Grease: Again, used all kinds and not sure it matters much. Most name brand greases are all going to work well. Perhaps a bit of difference on really tight guns. The real thing here is again which performs well in extremes, last long (same with oil...who wants to reclean a gun before shooting it because the lube broke down?), and doesn't cause corrosion. Corrosion is a big concern with greases. Some of the additives can cause dissimilar metals to corrode if stored for a long time (months, years?). Lithium grease seems to be slicker, but it can have a corrosion problem under the right conditions. I do prefer lithium grease on tight guns (e.g. my WC 1911), but I shoot that enough it gets cleaned long before any corrosion problem could pop up.
I don't think you will find a difference between the name brands as to function unless you gun is very tight. However, wear of tight parts I bet there is a big difference. Unfortunately, that is something hard to really prove outside of a lab. Not something I can do at the moment. On loose SD guns (e.g. Glock), I really don't think it matters as long as you lube it correctly. I'd be willing to be that more wear and tear is done to firearms from improper lubrication than to using an inferior product.
I have yet to find a product which I can definitively say it works better. High end lithium grease does seem to work best on my 1911 and I think I can tell the difference, but I not certain it isn't all in my head. Lab tests would say the lithium grease is better, but does it really matter? Depends on the gun IMHO.
Given how we use grease (where you are suppose too), I think a good grease is more important than a good oil. Wear on greased parts tends to be more critical than where we use oil. Just my two cents.
It may be overkill for a firearm with lower operating temperatures.