Virginia Gun Owners Forum - VGOF

I work on cars as a hobby and I have some high quality anti-seize in my toolbox. I see that my Glock came with copper paste as a lubricant on the slide. Would I be able to use high-temp anti-seize as a lube?

That is a good question.

I don't know for sure, but I would recommend against it unless you take a really good look at the chemical make-up of it.

We use it at work. However, we put it on the threads, put the nuts on, tighten the nuts and it sits there at 530 F for a couple of weeks and then we take the nuts off and remove the filters.

There is no constant source of friction/movement during that time period - the nut turns on, the nut turns off.

I'd be leery of using it for lube but it someone else wants to try it......

You could try using a VERY light film of CV axle grease, It will hold up under just about anything

I agree with M1A4ME. The mechanical properties are different.

Why would you want to do this? Gun grease is really cheap. I like the nice lithium stuff, but a tube of it is a couple of bucks. If you're that hard pressed, I'll give you some.

gunderwood wrote:I agree with M1A4ME. The mechanical properties are different.

Why would you want to do this? Gun grease is really cheap. I like the nice lithium stuff, but a tube of it is a couple of bucks. If you're that hard pressed, I'll give you some.

Plus 1 from me.Or try some gunslick.
Bill

I have Hoppes #9 lubricant, but it seems so thin in comparison to the copper lube. Same goes from the Break Free CLP stuff. I understand that Glocks will shoot under most conditions, including being dry, so I guess any gun lube is better than none.

I guess to make myself feel better, I may just have to find some factory copper lube...

DobeMan wrote:I have Hoppes #9 lubricant, but it seems so thin in comparison to the copper lube. Same goes from the Break Free CLP stuff. I understand that Glocks will shoot under most conditions, including being dry, so I guess any gun lube is better than none.

I guess to make myself feel better, I may just have to find some factory copper lube...

Wouldn't worry about finding copper lube. Get a good lithium based gun lube (any gun store) and don't look back.

I don't know about use as a lube, but if it's anything like the antiseize I use, it'd be an incredibly messy proposition.

I stick with plastilube for gun lubrication.

I dunno about Anti-Seize... But there is a High-Temp Lube (for cars, looks like red goop) that I use on my AR's BCG. I can't remember the name of it off hand, but I was recommended it by a couple people that shoot ARs far more than I do. You wouldn't catch me using that stuff on a pistol though.

Actually, I use Motor Kote spray. So far it has beat any to the gun lubes I have used.

Red Goop? Probably Permatex Assembly Lube - that stuff is great of adhesion to parts until motor oil has a chance to make it around to all the parts of a newly assembled engine. I use it in all of my ratchets because as soon as it gets displaced from the gear/pawl action, it goes right back in - very clingy stuff. That property makes it very viscous as well - thus dampening a lot of noise from ratchets and making them feel ultra smooth. Try any one of my Snap-on Dual80 ratchets, you'd practically think they were gearless.

Anyways, it tends to run when it gets warm, not a good thing for a hot gun.

Howdy,

Are you talking about the stuff they use on O2 sensors? That stuff has microscopic glass beads in it that remain behind after the goop burns away. I expect those beads would shatter and become abrasive.

Regards,

George

Here's what I was mentioning earlier:



Tactical Response: AR 15 Lubrication
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXIsKEHo-4g

And a video explaining the process. SuperTech is a Wal-mart rebrand, so you will only find it there. It's a couple bucks and will last forever.

I grew up with Outers and Hopppes #9.

Could be a sound theory,
the newer lubes have improved formulas and properties.
try it and let us know the results.

I have heard Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil and Grease have been satisfactory also.I used Duralube with fine results.

While we all have our favorite Cleaners (from CLP to Mineral Spirits...etc.),heck,I know a guy that when he gets home from the range that pops his weapons in the Dishwasher...

and Lubes from GunButter to Militec-1.....etc;ad infinitum...

The part I am leery about is using too much Grease on areas that should only have a thin coating of Lube.

I am of the opinion that for "High Wear" areas ,a small amount of Grease is fine and warranted.
But you would not want to load your Firing Pin Channel with it.

You must take into account how many rounds you fire,as with more Powder being incorporated with the lubes,you are creating a "Slurry".
And,
if you leave the "Slurry" for an extended period,you are polishing (read;Removing) Material.

The more stuff you leave in there,the more you Accumulate.

I submit to you Eezox;
http://www.google.com/search?client=fir ... gle+Search

I swear by my Weapons it works.

Drumstix61 wrote:While we all have our favorite Cleaners (from CLP to Mineral Spirits...etc.),heck,I know a guy that when he gets home from the range that pops his weapons in the Dishwasher...

Has he never heard of heavy metal poisoning? Lead just doesn't wash away and anything else the goes through that dishwasher will be contaminated. This has to be one of the worst ideas I've ever heard for cleaning a firearm.

While I would never run a gun through a dishwasher I have been known to take weapons in the shower way back in the day. Nothing like hot water to get the crud out...

Here is a good read on gun lubes:

http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Gentlemen we should all know that water is not our friend and we make every attempt to repel it ( proper lube) so I guess you know my feelings on water as a firearms cleaner. CLP used to contain teflon until the tree huggers got involved and required the manufacture to remove it. Those of us who do remember having to shake our bottles of CLP prior to applying what we were doing was agitating it. When I was a DOD military small arms guy I answered many questions on proper lube especially when dealing with desert conditions. The dept of the Army would not change there basic lube from CLP to Remoil which contained teflon. I suggested to more than one person to aquire powered teflon on their own and added it. The copper coating on all Glock pistols is standard and after proper cleaning only a small amount of oil on each slide rail is required. Most moving part s on firearms are metal or alloy, Hoppes 9 gun cleaner should never be used on any chrome parts or chrome lined barrels due to the ammonia. A properly cleaned firearm will allow the lubrication to build up in the metal and provide a tacky base to it, this will repel most moisture but if you run a clean cloth over it, it will discolor like it is dirty. Pretty much I believe Gun cleaner and lube is for Guns and all others are for their respective counterparts.