Virginia Gun Owners Forum - VGOF

Thanks guys.

Anyone in favor of the 6.8SPC out there?

On the 9" SBR, are there any concerns with heat on the front end? I have never used a can but have read they get very hot very quickly. I had a bull pup many moons ago and hated that I had to wear gloves. It seems like that could be a concern or do I just have to use a fore grip?

On my post ban my plan is either to get the break off and use an adapter (assuming threads can be salvaged) with the .30 can OR just have it cut and threaded. OR get a new barrel, just seems silly to not be able to shoot both calibers suppressed.

Jdonovan, between the 300BLK test drive and talking about reloading (reloading post) it seems I need to plan a Saturday in Warrenton very soon. Meet at Clark Bros. and then check out your reloading set up?

Oh and my apologies for being such a posting whore but this recent windfall plus the legislative storm on the horizon has me thinking I need to make some good fast decisions and get my paperwork done to complete the sale of the SBR, .30 Can and 22lr can.

On the 9" SBR, are there any concerns with heat on the front end? I have never used a can but have read they get very hot very quickly. I had a bull pup many moons ago and hated that I had to wear gloves. It seems like that could be a concern or do I just have to use a fore grip?

Yes the can will get warm, very warm. FAST. The barrel, really no worse than any other.

Jdonovan, between the 300BLK test drive and talking about reloading (reloading post) it seems I need to plan a Saturday in Warrenton very soon. Meet at Clark Bros. and then check out your reloading set up?

can be done.

I need to make some good fast decisions and get my paperwork done to complete the sale of the SBR, .30 Can and 22lr can.

fast, NFA,

If you get your forms in today, you'll be lucky to see them by the time Fall gets here. Figure 6-8 months. Have one still pending from May 1, 2012.

Yes, the cans will get hot very quick. Suggest a steel can for exactly that reason (not many building Ti cans for AR rifles anymore). 300BLK's inch for inch will do much better suppressed than 5.56mm.

Im looking to build a 300 Blackout AR

I have an AR I built in .300-221, which us the wildcat of .300 Whisper, the predecessor of .300 BLK. My rifle will handle .300 BLK just fine, and I use it with my YHM 7.62 Phantom QD suppressor. It has an adjustable gas block, so I can dial it in for different loads or shut it off altogether! Shot side-by-side with an MP5SD and a Remington 700 SPS in .300 BLK with a 762-SD-N6 can, the report was the same. That is to say... quiet as f***.

I built this rifle almost 4 years ago. Very neat cartridge. Everyone thought I was full of crap that it was awesome, and now it's the next big thing.

I still have a section of barrel blank left over that I need to have machined into a 10" barrel for my SBR AR.



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The internal debate I was having (pre-Newtown and pre-selling and buying houses) was either going with a "standard" barrel, or better, going with a 14" barrel with a 2"flash hider/suppressor mount to make it a non-SBR, then getting the suppressor.

Then I'd have to see what the deal is for carrying it with the suppressor into WV....

Mindflayer wrote:The internal debate I was having (pre-Newtown and pre-selling and buying houses) was either going with a "standard" barrel, or better, going with a 14" barrel with a 2"flash hider/suppressor mount to make it a non-SBR, then getting the suppressor.

Then I'd have to see what the deal is for carrying it with the suppressor into WV....

They are legal in WVA. As long as they are legal where you are going your fine. They aren't like SBRs where you need BATFE permission to take them out of state.

Mindflayer wrote:The internal debate I was having (pre-Newtown and pre-selling and buying houses) was either going with a "standard" barrel, or better, going with a 14" barrel with a 2"flash hider/suppressor mount to make it a non-SBR, then getting the suppressor.

IMO if you are not going to go SBR, then a short barrel with a welded/pinned FH is a PITA with little upside.

NFA paperwork is no big deal, and if you want a hand going through the processes I'll be happy to help ya.

WVA is fine with both SBR's and suppressors, and I take mine up there a few times a year to shoot at a buddy's place. Just need your approved form 20's before you go. I do up a 364 day form once a year, so I'm good to go any time I want.

Also you can get a 16" bbl for the SBR lower, and when you put that on, *presto* no longer a SBR, and you can travel without any of the forms as long as you don't have the short parts with you when you travel.

Resurrecting an old post to share some great news and gratitude. Picked up my rifle and can from sterling arsenal this week. Greatest and most awaited prize I have ever won. Hoping to find time to shoot this weekend, The rifle is absolutely amazing, makes my old bushmaster look like scrap metal.

Ended up doing the 300BLK SBR. Also picked up a 22lr can and had my ruger 10-22 bull barrel threaded. If you have not been to Sterling Arsenal you are missing out. Great shop, great inventory, great layout and a great group of guys. Was really impressed with the turn around time, quality of work and price to thread my barrel and they did some additional work after calling me and showing me the effects of my neglect on my poor 10-22.

Can't say thank you enough to VGOF, Arsenal Attorneys or Sterling Arsenal. If I ever figure out how to post a picture I will share. Thanks again for this great community and the quality vendors that support it.

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Molfeens, I've been holding off buying a 300BLK upper because of ammo. Most places I look seem to be out of stock.

Been wanting also to do a 300BLK SBR since I already have the stamp. REALLY interested in seeing first hand the difference between super and sub sonic ammo, etc.

bryanrheem wrote:, I've been holding off buying a 300BLK upper because of ammo. Most places I look seem to be out of stock.

its a less-popular round, so it will be a while before it comes back into stock when the ammo panic subsides.

Been wanting also to do a 300BLK SBR since I already have the stamp. REALLY interested in seeing first hand the difference between super and sub sonic ammo, etc.

it can be arranged.

Do you have any specific questions about the differences? I've been running 300 for over a year now, and have a good feel for the cartridge.

My experience has been running 45ACP (230gr) out of a suppressed 9" barrel.

I've read about the similarities between 45ACP and subsonic 300BLK. Would love to 'hear' them side by side.

What attracts me to 300BLK is the ability to shoot both sub and super with a simple mag change. Where would you rate the recoil of the 300blk compared to 223/556?

bryanrheem wrote: I've read about the similarities between 45ACP and subsonic 300BLK. Would love to 'hear' them side by side.

I doubt you are going to hear too much difference from the shooters position. The 300 should be a bit quieter, as the smaller bore does suppress a bit better.

Where would you rate the recoil of the 300blk compared to 223/556?

Less. Noticeably less with subsonics. Subsonic is 1/2 to 1/3 the energy of the supersonic round.

jdonovan wrote:

bryanrheem wrote:

Been wanting also to do a 300BLK SBR since I already have the stamp. REALLY interested in seeing first hand the difference between super and sub sonic ammo, etc.

it can be arranged.

I'd like to get in on that. I am considering a .300BLK upper for my SBR as well.

What barrel do you recommend? I am considering the Noveske 8.2" or the 9" AAC w/ a Surefire SOCOM762-mini.

AtomicPunk wrote: I'd like to get in on that. I am considering a .300BLK upper for my SBR as well.

What barrel do you recommend? I am considering the Noveske 8.2" or the 9" AAC w/ a Surefire SOCOM762-mini.

I went with pre built uppers, 9" aac, 16" aac. So no real experience with other brand on the AR.

I've also got the Rem 700 (not the micro), and a TC encore.

They all shoot reasonably well, the bolt/hinge actions can be loaded with different powders as there is no gas system to operate, and you can get them to run very quietly.

Sounds like we need to put together a range day. Jdonovan if I recall correctly you are in Fauquier. I am in Loudoun. When and where? I guess ammo is a factor too, I have 400 rounds subsonic to my name.

bryanrheem and atomic punk, if you are in Nova I highly recommend checking out Sterling Arsenal. Or look AT&T their website. They build an impressive rifle.

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subsonic + cans are no fun at an indoor public range. ideally we could find some private space where we could do some controlled fun. Oh for quiet comparison I can even arrange a MP5SD.

I've got a few 1000's of empty cases, I just need some time and to decide I want to put in 'em. For plinkers I've got some 147 FMJ's. Also have some 235gr cast.

Sign me up. I realized I spend exponentially more time researching, buying and modifying guns than I do actually shooting them. That needs to change.

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I built one a couple years ago. I don't shoot it much, need to do some more reloading to develop a more accurate load.

If you like the AR then, to me, the .300 BO makes more sense than a 7.62X39 AR. I've read (on the internet) that many people end up with broke extractors or bolt lugs. The story is this is due to the case head being larger on the X39 so the bolt head is thinner for that caliber in order to work in the AR/AR barrels. Yeah, a couple companies have come out with extractors/bolts made of a special steel that is not supposed to break. Bottom line? If it breaks, you may not be able to get parts for it, while for the .300 BO, any .223 AR bolt parts will work.

Also, the 7.62X39 AR requires different magazines than the .300 BO/.223 Rem. magazine.

Comparison to heavy .300 BO bullets vs. .45 acp bullets? That only works up close. No way the big round .45 acp bullets will give you the range/accuracy of the big .30 caliber bullets. They may be slow, but the design/shape of the heavy .30 caliber bullets make them accurate at several times the range of the .45 acp bullets. And again, different bolt parts and magazines are required for a .45 acp AR 15.

I think if you really want to shoot .300 BO you should get into reloading for it. Then you have a much better choice of bullets/loads for it and you won't be running store to store looking for ammo - and you won't be paying $1 per round for it either. I bought a box of .300 BO brass (converted GI 5.56X45) to start but any .223 brass that cracks at the neck becomes more .300 BO brass after I trim, size and trim again. I don't guess I'll ever have to buy brass again. And I've bought a 230 grain mold to cast some heavy bullets for it. I never could get the 220 grain round nose lead bullets I bought for the M1917 to work in the .300 BO. The new ones are spitzer boat tails and should feed/chamber fine.

My whole idea for my .300 BO was to get a suppressor, shorten the barrel and use it for the occasional deer for the freezer. I was (originally) wanting to have the barrel shortened and the suppressor permanently attached so it was no longer an SBR. Now I'm not so sure.

Accuracy and recoil? Well, back to the reloading thing. I need to do more as so far I'm not really impressed. It is no more accurate with the limited amount of loading I've done than my SIG 556R with Wolf ammo. Recoil is greater than the .223 AR15's. I installed an H2 buffer, hoping to reduce the felt recoil with the heavier buffer but I can't really tell the difference. Recoil isn't terrible (compared to my 12 ga, or my M1 Garand) but its heavier than I'd like with my nose sitting against the back of the charging handle. Not that I plan on shooting a deer more than once.

Jdonovan I can volunteer time and money to reloading. Would love to take you up on a year old offer to learn how to reload before I go buy my own set up.

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