I use M and A parts a lot. All of there uppers are from GI spec contracts. I have never had an issue with any part. The only thing you are going to get from a big name company is the "name".wylde007 wrote:I just picked up a couple of Stag lowers at the VB gun show this weekend for $110 each.
I'm doing my research right now for build-outs. Anyone have any experience with:
http://www.ar15-kits.com/
http://www.model1sales.com/
http://www.m-aparts.com/
http://www.del-ton.com/
?
They all look comparable from a price standpoint. I'm definitely doing one in 556 and I think I want to do the other in 6.5 Grendel.
Would I be able to drop a 6.8 Rem bolt/carrier/barrel assembly right on top of a complete lower? Could I do this interchangeably between all the weapons? Build two complete lowers and then swap uppers when the mood (or ammo supply) hits me?
Two new AR15 Lowers Today
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dustoffmedic
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Re: Two new AR15 Lowers Today
I have and will continue to stand ready to engage and destroy the enemy (Islamic terrorists) on their own turf so my children can be free and unafraid.
Be very afraid - Socialism is upon us..... Defend you right to keep and bear arms!
Be very afraid - Socialism is upon us..... Defend you right to keep and bear arms!
Re: Two new AR15 Lowers Today
If you'll allow me to amend alby's parts list, I would add a set of roll pin punches, a pair of small needle-nose pliers to hold the pins while you get them started, and some tape to protect your receiver's finish during the bolt catch pin install.
Also, I'd recommend a smaller hammer, preferably a brass/nylon job or at least a 6-8 oz. ball peen. That huge claw hammer is too unweildy and will mushroom your pins in a heartbeat. You will definitely need a spanner wrench to tighten the castle nut during the buffer tube install, and if you're gonna use a vice, you'll want to get a mag well block so you don't have to vice your whole receiver (although I guess a properly trimmed block of wood could also work).
Even factoring in the cost of those parts, it's still cheaper - and much more fun & educational - than buying an assembled rifle.
Also, I'd recommend a smaller hammer, preferably a brass/nylon job or at least a 6-8 oz. ball peen. That huge claw hammer is too unweildy and will mushroom your pins in a heartbeat. You will definitely need a spanner wrench to tighten the castle nut during the buffer tube install, and if you're gonna use a vice, you'll want to get a mag well block so you don't have to vice your whole receiver (although I guess a properly trimmed block of wood could also work).
Even factoring in the cost of those parts, it's still cheaper - and much more fun & educational - than buying an assembled rifle.