Virginia Gun Owners Forum - VGOF

Hey all,

I've been doing some research and actually got the Gerber LMF II. Took it camping recently to really test it out and was pleased with it's performance. While I bought firewood, the knife did exceptionally well splitting the wood. It also has holes to lash it to a pole for spearing. Again, used a fishing rod. lol. The back tip supposedly is sharp and hard enough to break glass... and yes, I didn't try that out either.

The knife is very well balanced and the grip provides a really positive grip, even when wet. I bought this over the Kbar or Sog so I'm curious if people have other opions on Survival knives. I really wanted a Spyderco Salt but they're not longer made.

I have a plethora of "survival knives", but in truth? In the field, I use my Gerber Multitool more than anything blade-wise. I carry an axe for wood chopping, hammering in tent spikes, and such.

Now, I carry an inexpensive fixed blade, and wore it for awhile, but put it in the pack now, and rarely pull it out.

An axe, and a multi-tool seem to work best in the field under my conditions.

I have a Gerber LMF too, as well as a Gerber Back Paxe mini-axe and my Leatherman Wave multi-tool. There's not much you can't do with that combo.

I also have the Gerber mini-axe which I used also as a hammer for spikes. It's a great combo (LMF and mini-axe).

The best survival knife I have goes on the end of my CETME. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the bayonet on my Arsenal. And next year I'm buying a bayonet for my Enfield. And if I'm really lucky, I'll have a Swiss K-31 with bayonet before the new year

A thread about multi-tools? Well, I would be remiss if I weren't to post a link to a great selection of them available for purchase!

Multi-tools by Gerber, Leatherman, SOG, Winchester and more!

I find my ESEE-3 does very nicely. It's blade is plenty long for most tasks and can be very sharp. The nice thing is it is made from 1095 steel which is softer than stainless, but can be sharpened on any flat rock.

If I'm going for extended trips, the ESEE-5 gets the nod. It's an absolute beast! http://www.eseeknives.com/rc-5.htm

Heres a few of my 'survival' types

Buck 119
Ka-Bar
Ontario SP10 Raider



The SP10 is 1/4inch 1095

I love the little fiskar's axe's myself

It's not so much "brand" as "build".

There are generally things you'll need a fixed blade for as an OVERALL survival knife. Keep in mind, a fixed blade isn't the end all, be all. Here's what I look for in a general fixed blade field knife (AKA "survival"):

1.) You'll need a knife that's balanced. If it's not? You're doing the work, not the knife.

2.) You'll need a knife with a thick enough blade. "Baton" thru some small-sized trees, or "beavering" a mid-sized tree requires strength. Thin blades fail.

3.) You'll need a knife with a FULL tang! I've seen good blades with pisspoor tangs just SNAP!

4.) You need a knife with a good GRIP! All those "pretty" grips usually slip like pigs with grease when wet, or covered with blood. Paracord wrapped around it usually can solve this problem, but why have the problem at all?

5.) You need a knife with an easily sharpened blade. It's why I'm not a fan of serrated knives. I dig 'em, until I have to SHARPEN them!

6.) You need a blade with a decent point. Having the point break off when you need it, just makes for another problem you can avoid.

Everyone's different, and like I said, I prefer my muli-tool, and tomahawk/Axe. But if I had need of a fixed blade, that's what I use as criteria. As to steels, and particular makers, etc, etc, etc? Figure out what you need, then judge it next to that... Gil Hibben may sell more knives than an knife designer out there, but he's YET to make ANYTHING I would carry into the field with me.

Gerber, Cold Steel, and Buck usually have a pretty good selection that falls into those above criteria, and they're ALL backed with a WARRANTY! That says much about them.

I like the Gerber LMF II; however am already the very pleased owner of the USMC multi-purpose bayonet that came out around 2005. It has served really well as a utility fixed-blade.

Similar to Chasbo00, the other and most frequently used knife in my gear is a Victorinox with the two blades, can opener, scissors, bottle opener (latter two with screwdriver tips), awl, and most importantly, corkscrew. It's small and light, tethered to my pack with 550 so I don't lose it.

I've never found the need in the back woods for a full-on Leatherman type multi-tool as much as I use them around the house.

OH! The Leatherman/Gerber Multi-Tool works for picking up the coffee pot, and other metal objects that were used near the fire...

Also, using the teeth portion can build a notch completely around a limb for a fire bow... Keeps the cord from slipping.

Don't laugh but my bail-out-bags each have 3 'knives' ranging from small folders, a multi-tool and usually a larger folders/fixed blade. One has a hatchet and the other a saw... Same with fire-starting (matches, lighter and mag.rod....)
My daily carry blades are normally a mid-sized folder and keep a small multitool in my jacket/computer bag. My skeet bag has a Gun Tool (multitool) and a mini folder. When I was in the Corps I normally carried 2-3 blades depending on the situation/training/range-duty/etc; a larger multitool and one smaller folder for myself and my KBar which often got borrowed (had my name engraved on it) to make sure I got it back. Stay away from gimmick 'survival knives' with hollow handles UNLESS you have multiple blades on you as they will break at the worst possible time!

I was thinking about one of these... http://zombietools.net/tools/

Dude...seek out something that is the same but MUCH less expensive! you're paying for "pretty graphics", and "Zombie" being in the title....


You can get some decent machete's from Gerber, and Cold Steel.

Cold Steel now makes a GLADIUS that's fairly balanced. It's not expensive, nor meant to be... But it's probably gonna save you some money in the long run.

Reverenddel wrote:It's not so much "brand" as "build".

There are generally things you'll need a fixed blade for as an OVERALL survival knife. Keep in mind, a fixed blade isn't the end all, be all. Here's what I look for in a general fixed blade field knife (AKA "survival"):

1.) You'll need a knife that's balanced. If it's not? You're doing the work, not the knife.

2.) You'll need a knife with a thick enough blade. "Baton" thru some small-sized trees, or "beavering" a mid-sized tree requires strength. Thin blades fail.

3.) You'll need a knife with a FULL tang! I've seen good blades with pisspoor tangs just SNAP!

4.) You need a knife with a good GRIP! All those "pretty" grips usually slip like pigs with grease when wet, or covered with blood. Paracord wrapped around it usually can solve this problem, but why have the problem at all?

5.) You need a knife with an easily sharpened blade. It's why I'm not a fan of serrated knives. I dig 'em, until I have to SHARPEN them!

6.) You need a blade with a decent point. Having the point break off when you need it, just makes for another problem you can avoid.

Everyone's different, and like I said, I prefer my muli-tool, and tomahawk/Axe. But if I had need of a fixed blade, that's what I use as criteria. As to steels, and particular makers, etc, etc, etc? Figure out what you need, then judge it next to that... Gil Hibben may sell more knives than an knife designer out there, but he's YET to make ANYTHING I would carry into the field with me.

Gerber, Cold Steel, and Buck usually have a pretty good selection that falls into those above criteria, and they're ALL backed with a WARRANTY! That says much about them.

+1 on the full tang and the serration part!